July 2021

Sample Itinerary (from Chicago)
- Day 1: Rockford (Illinois), Madison, Baraboo
- Day 2: Devil’s Lake, Wisconsin Dells, Baraboo
- Day 3: House on the Rock, Mt. Horeb, Madison
- Day 4: Madison, Milwaukee
Optional: Pewits Nest Gorge, Parfrey’s Glen, Cave of the Mounds, Lake Geneva, Mars Cheese Castle

Where to Stay
- Ringling House B&B in Baraboo ($115 USD)
- Hotel Indigo in Madison ($170 USD)

Where to Eat
- Baraboo: Tumbled Rock Brewery (perfect place to visit after hiking Devil’s Lake), Baraboo Burger Company (open late serving up tasty burgers and salads), Coffee Bean Connection (cute place with flavourful lattes, mochas, and bagels), Driftless Glen Distillery (fancier dining)
- Madison: Chocolate Shoppe, Madison Sourdough, Glass Nickel Pizza Company

My Travel Diary
As an “alien” – yes, that’s the actual term used – there’s still a lot that I don’t know, and am curious to learn about the U.S. Enter Wisconsin. One of my closest friends had told me that while living in Chicago I had to visit Wisconsin, especially the Devil’s Lake hiking area, House on the Rock, and Madison. His spouse had lived in Madison temporarily and the two of them had explored the area to the fullest extent possible, so I trusted their judgment. Due to scheduling conflicts, I had to delay the trip until April, 2021. As it happens, spring is an excellent time to visit Wisconsin. Leaving Chicago, my travel partner (i.e., real life partner) and I decided to stop at Rockford, Illinois to check out the arboretum and Anderson Japanese Gardens. I found the Japanese garden really well-manicured and very peaceful, particularly appreciating the waterfalls and traditional Japanese zigzag bridge. We spent so long at the Anderson Japanese Gardens that we never saw the nearby botanical gardens or arboretum.

The whole area was fairly residential, which made the search for Frank Lloyd Wright’s Laurent House a bit tricky. This house has the distinction of being the only Wright house designed for a client with a physical disability. Built in the 1950s, this house was referred to as Ken and Phyllis Laurent’s “little gem” although its grounds are surprisingly large. We parked on a side street and just wandered the exterior as it was officially closed and undergoing maintenance when we came; normally, it would cost $5 for students to enter and $25 for others. It may have been Wright, but we were probably wrong to just snoop around without paying – the consolation is that we never entered the building, or even the backyard. In a similarly creepy manner, we drove by Taliesin (also by Wright) but didn’t enter. It spans 800 acres, including the 37 000 square foot home, and is actually a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. There are a number of tours available, including a two-hour highlights tour that is $65. Hopefully next time I’m in the area I’ll actually explore it in greater depth, not just do a drive-by.

On the theme of architecture, I would be remiss not to devote time to the House on the Rock. The question is: how do you begin to describe the strangest place you’ve ever visited (excluding a robot café in Japan, naturally)? Here goes. Once upon a time there was a man, a very strange man, named Alex Jordan. With the heart of a dreamer and the mind of an engineer, he bought land in the 1940s overlooking a valley and began building a home into the huge rocks that dotted the landscape. The house grew and by the 1960s he was charging admission to tourists who flocked to the site to see the stained glass, low ceilings, and music machines. As time passed, his interests expanded: he assembled the largest indoor carousel in the world, he built a 218-foot scenic overhang (which shakes with the wind), and he curated wings of his house devoted to topics as divergent as aviation, doll houses, and musical organs (for starters). Nowadays, it takes hours to tour the house in its entirety. We opted for the “ultimate experience” and spent four hours exploring all three sections. It was musty, I had to duck at times, I felt watched by all the dolls and strange animatronics, but I can safely say that I never saw terrifying twins. Or Jack Nicholson, for that matter. Although I wouldn’t even be surprised if someone told me he’d made a cameo at one of Alex Jordan’s wild 1960s parties.

Mt. Horeb, Baraboo, and Wisconsin Dells were also strange but combined they still wouldn’t even register on a scale measured against House on the Rock. To begin with, Baraboo is a circus city in every sense: from the Circus World Museum to all the businesses named after the Ringling brothers to the statues of elephants all over town. We spent two nights there, but in retrospect I would have rather stayed there one night and spent two nights in Madison instead. Briefly, our bright yellow B&B in Baraboo was actually built in 1901 by one of the famous Ringling brothers – hence the name, “Ringling House B&B”. I had been hoping for a tour of the home, but it never came. Regardless, it served as a good enough base for our regional exploring because it was well-located, clean, and fairly private. Surprisingly, our “modern” Indigo Hotel in Madison was actually a highly-renovated building from the early 1900s as well. Due to its former identity as a paint headquarters and manufacturing plant, the hotel has splashes of colour all over, which really added to its charm.

Baraboo also has its own charm, but unfortunately it was fairly deserted while we were there which meant that a number of the businesses and attractions were closed. For entertainment, we walked the Riverwalk and watched a local baseball game. It felt wholesome, yet incomplete – mainly because I had no hot dog or peanuts in hand. In fact, the restaurants in Baraboo closed really early, so we faced a quandary after becoming so invested in the baseball game that we missed closing time for almost all of the local eateries! We strolled restaurant to restaurant hoping that one would still be open. We entered one and promptly left after receiving an intimidating stare down from the server and other patrons; the next one we entered, Baraboo Burger Company, was a much more welcoming environment (with delicious results!). It was eerie walking around at night, but at least there were no Galena-styled sirens.

Mt. Horeb may have a few thousand less human residents than Baraboo, but it makes up for that with its outsized troll population. In fact, Mt. Horeb is known as “the troll capital of the world” and I took it upon myself to meet as many of the trolls as I could. I started by picking up my “trollway” map at the visitor center, heartily announcing myself with a vibrato “velkommen”. It turns out you don’t need to speak Norwegian to go troll hunting, which is helpful since in reality I don’t speak Norwegian. It turns out the area has had a strong Norwegian presence since the late 1800s, and Scandinavian culture has helped shape Wisconsin in ways that I hadn’t realized. Although I learned more than I’ll ever need to know about trolls, it was harder to find information about the Indigenous people who had lived there prior to the European settlers. Instead, I had to fall back on my old friend the internet. Search results told me that the area was part of the Ho-Chunk territory, which was “ceded” to the U.S. government over the course of a number of treaties signed in the early 19th century. So far wherever I’ve traveled in the U.S., I’ve seen little to no offerings for tourists (or locals) that incorporate or highlight the history and contemporary cultures of Indigenous people. It’s erasure and it’s disappointing, to say the least.

While looking for more information about Indigenous cultures around what’s now known as Wisconsin, I learned that “Today, the Ho-Chunk Nation is the largest employer in Sauk and Jackson counties” (https://wisconsinfirstnations.org/ho-chunk-nation/). Part of the Wisconsin Dells is in Sauk county, so that was a helpful fact to keep in mind while visiting. That being said, I stayed as short a time as possible because it felt like it was trying to be Niagara Falls trying to be Las Vegas: funnel cakes, old timey photo studios, overpriced wax museums and all. After a quick drive through town, we felt in need of the purifying power of nature so we hiked the Chapel Gorge Trail. It’s fine if you’re looking for a simple stroll in the woods, but if you’re craving more excitement then Devil’s Lake is the place for you.

We drove to the Devil’s Lake State Park fairly early by our standards, but nowhere near its opening time of 6 am. It was straightforward to pay the $16 admission fee, park, and then set off on our hike. The helpful attendant advised that we try the East Bluff Trail for the best views, as well as the chance to see Elephant Rock and Devil’s Doorway. Truthfully, Elephant Rock looked more like a giant brain to me; at least House on the Rock was clearly a house… on a rock.

In any case, I found the hike challenging. It’s steep at times, but the real issue was the fact that you’re walking on stone steps that are significantly spaced at times and I actually cut my knee trying to scramble from one to another. It’s officially labeled as “moderate”, but for me it was difficult, and I doubt it would be easy for anyone aside from maybe mountain goats.

On our way back to the car we followed the Tumbled Rock Path, which was a walk in the park (literally and figuratively). Tumbled Rock is a very easy and fairly quick walk whereas East Bluff Trail is far from accessible and would require at least two hours (at least).

The views are spectacular though – especially from the Devil’s Doorway. Looking down you’ll see the green trees jutting out from purple rocks above the turquoise lake and under the cerulean sky, and wonder how you could be so lucky as to stand surrounded by such beauty. And yes, I said purple rocks. It turns out that Devil’s Lake State Park is the most commonly visited park in Wisconsin partially because of its Baraboo Quartzite: pink and purple exposed rocks that date back 1.5 billion years. I may not be a geologist (or a dad), but I can officially say that this place rocks.

Now let’s talk Madison, the progressive gem of Wisconsin. Apart from it being a wonderful place to visit, I kept reflecting on how much I’d like to live there: from its multiple lakes (sunrise picnic at one, sunset picnic at another!) to its seemingly endless biking/walking trails (including an arboretum in the middle of the city with yet another lake inside of it!) coupled with its emphasis on respecting nature and humanity, I just felt so enamoured with everything I experienced. Maybe instead of just admiring the imposing Wisconsin State Capitol building from the outside, I should have been networking inside of it!

As Madison is the capital of Wisconsin, it’s inherently political. The writing was on the walls all over the city, so to speak: protest slogans and inspirational images like a collage from May 30, 2020. We didn’t see any protests while we were there, but there was plenty of proof that it’s a civically-active city. It gives me hope when I see people actively engaging in democratic processes, and even more so when they’re creating those processes themselves. Policy changes culture, and policy needs to be responsive to local culture too.

I’ll finish this blog post by focusing on my one true love: food. And the food all over Wisconsin, but especially in Madison, was phenomenal. We tried multiple restaurants, but our favourite had to be a pizza joint. It was so good that we ate Glass Nickel pizza at Olbrich Beach one day and then at Marshall Park the next (I highly recommend their chicken alfredo pizza!). Thankfully neither of us is lactose-intolerant, so we completed our first meal with tasty treats from Madison Chocolate Shoppe. Milkshake in hand, gloves on hand (it got chilly at night), we walked through the University of Wisconsin-Madison campus at sunset enjoying the reflections on the lake. Well, one of the many lakes.

Upon leaving Madison, we decided to make one more stop in Milwaukee so that my partner could visit a friend and I could eat more dairy. The Milwaukee Public Market was the perfect pit stop: you can find anything from spices to smoothies. Now that I’ve had a taste of Wisconsin, I’m definitely craving more – as cheesy as that may sound.

Sample Itinerary (from Chicago)
- Day 1: Elgin’s Walton Island, Stockton murals, Galena
- Day 2: Explore Galena including the Galena River Trail, Ulysses S. Grant home, and Historic Galena; Chestnut Mountain Resort, and Casper Bluff
- Day 3: Thunder Bay Falls, Apple River Canyon State Park
Optional: drive over the Mississippi River to Dubuque, Iowa or over the border into Wisconsin

Where to Stay
- The Steamboat House B&B (roughly $220/night)

Where to Eat
- Green Street Tavern in the historic DeSoto House Hotel
- Treats from Elle & Becks and/or Chocolat‘ 229

My Travel Diary
Craving a quick trip outside of the city limits, I started researching the best weekend getaways within a three-hour drive of Chicago. Consistently seeing the same results, it was a no-brainer: it had to be Galena, Illinois. The town is named after a rare mineral that was mined there for hundreds of years by local Indigenous tribes before European-American colonizers settled in the area in the early 1800s. The population quickly exploded and by the 1860s it even served as the headquarters for Ulysses S. Grant’s presidential campaign – the DeSoto House has painstakingly preserved many mementos that are worth seeing. The Ulysses S. Grant Home State Historic Site is also a must-see if you're interested in learning more about the man and his family. Nowadays, Galena is decidedly less populated, but far more tourist-friendly. From our comfortable B&B to the incredible architecture and delicious food, it's an easy and enjoyable time.

We spent our time there shopping, admiring the architecture, eating, and wandering the river walk. People were generally friendly and we chatted with many locals (masked, and at a distance). At the time, the pandemic was still raging and vaccinations weren’t yet ubiquitous. Unfortunately, these are political times: from the pandemic to the recent election, and some people were hiding their faces but wearing their opinions on their sleeves. I entered one business and casually made small-talk while the woman working there rang up my purchases, asking how they’d been faring in light of the travel restrictions, mask restrictions, etc. She told me that they hadn’t had many issues with people refusing to wear masks or protesting in Galena. “That’s fantastic. Everything’s so political these days, but I think most people just want everyone to be healthy and happy” I naively responded. She then launched into an angry diatribe about why Biden was destroying the U.S. and her thoughts on the insurrection (among other things). So, I firmly told her that this conversation was over and I was leaving her store. When you travel, there’s always the good and the bad, but sometimes there’s also the ugly: in this case it was political polarization popping up seemingly out of nowhere.

Aside from that unpleasant encounter, everyone was respectful – not trying to proselytize or pressure in any way. Yes, I set a low bar. I particularly enjoyed chatting with the owner of Elle & Becks, and the woman working in Chocolat’ 229: friendly, laid-back, flowing conversations, exactly what I’d expect on a small-town getaway. What I didn’t expect was a nice evening stroll being blaringly interrupted by a siren straight out of the movie “The Purge”. My instinct? Powerwalk toward the nearest open restaurant as quickly as possible. My partner’s response? Abruptly stop and check his phone. Guess who’s still alive? Both of us, thankfully! It turns out that some small towns have volunteer fire departments, which summon their firefighters through the use of a painfully loud siren. And apparently said siren must be tested daily to ensure it’s still functional. It was. In comparison, our B&B was located just off the main drag, so it felt like a really calm retreat. We were the only guests staying there at the time, which magnified the sense of healthy isolation that I had craved. The breakfasts were delicious, the décor was still Christmas-oriented, and we spent a good amount of time just relaxing in the various rooms throughout the historic home. I even had the opportunity to play piano to my adoring fans. Well, my one and only fan – but he really enjoyed it!

We also made sure to take in the nearby sites like Chestnut Mountain Resort, which would be a good place to learn how to ski or snowboard. Sadly, I wasn’t interested in either, but I did appreciate the view!

We continued on to the local Thunder Bay Falls, which were very different from the Canadian version. This was an odd stop because you have to park by the road and then walk over to see them, yet it’s hard to get a nice view of them without the surrounding developments that have sprung up.

Casper Bluff, in contrast, was much more rural and a really peaceful place to walk and appreciate the wide-open skies. It’s also a perfect spot for birdwatchers, even the kind who might usually only watch the blue jays and cardinals on TV.

Farther from Galena is Apple River Canyon State Park, which is worth a visit. We didn’t hike so much as casually walk through the park for about an hour before deciding to move on to our next destination. The highlight for us was playing in the snow: it felt like our own little winter wonderland.

Finally, I’ll just mention some of our stops on the way to and from Galena. We really liked Walton Island Park in Elgin, just outside of Chicago. It was very slippery, but it also had a Narnia-esque vibe to it.

Stockton was a sweet little town full of pretty murals, well worth a stop.

And although we didn’t spend much time in Dubuque, we were glad to have crossed the bridge into Iowa just to see the power of the Mississippi and remember how far it travels across the U.S. Maybe in the future, our travels will take us further afield but for now we’re happy just enjoying the local terrain.

Sample Itinerary (from Chicago)
- Day 1: St. Joseph, Holland, viewpoint at Arcadia Overlook/Dunes, Frankfort
- Day 2: Sleeping Bear Dunes Park
- Day 3: Scenic drive: Point Betsie Lighthouse, Glen Haven, Glen Arbor (cherries), Leland/Fishtown, Suttons Bay, and Traverse City
- Day 4: Grand Rapids, South Bend

Where to Stay
- Chimney Corners Resort in Frankfort, MI (open May 1-October 31)

Where to Eat
- St. Joseph: Arriba! Taqueria and Kilwins St. Joseph for dessert
- Empire: Shipwreck Cafe
- Frankfort: Stormcloud Brewing Company
- Benzonia: Roadhouse Mexican Bar and Grill
- Glen Arbor: Cherry Republic/Public House, Leelanau Coffee Roasting Co., Art’s Tavern was recommended (but we didn’t actually eat there)
- Leland/Fishtown: Village Cheese Shanty

My Travel Diary
October 21-24, 2020

Having spent a couple of pandemic months in Chicago, I was feeling tired of looking at skyscrapers instead of trees and avoiding people like, well, the plague. In sum, I wanted a vacation in nature, without the noise of construction cranes and with the serenity of quasi-solitude. Fortunately, Chicago is a good base from which to take a road trip. One of the most beautiful regions to explore in the fall is Michigan, particularly its M-22 scenic highway drive. Even the drive to the scenic drive was fairly scenic! We had visited St. Joseph before and appreciated its tidy downtown area, perfectly walkable with a nice view of its beautiful central beach. Located just under two hours’ drive from Chicago, it’s a convenient daytrip, weekend getaway, or rest stop on a longer road trip. The first time we went we made the mistake of eating Mexican food at the “authentic” Azul Tequila restaurant. Frankly, the food wasn't good and the huge portion sizes didn't help. This time, we opted for Arriba! Taqueria and we were pleasantly surprised. The portions were more reasonable and the quality was superior – we opted to share multiple dishes, which seemed like a good idea until I wished it was all mine. Given that I have the appetite of a high school hockey player, I was still perfectly happy to indulge in some post-lunch dessert at Kilwin’s in the downtown core. It’s never too cold for a milkshake – you just may need to wear gloves to hold it, that’s all. St. Joseph is a very strollable town, including its gem: Silver Beach. Near the beach, you can also see the 1910 carousel, playgrounds, a pavilion, older lighthouses, and even a kids’ museum. If Silver Beach isn’t right for you, there are six other beaches nearby to explore. No shortage of sand in this area.

Our next stop on our northern route was Holland. Although it’s just a small town and not a small region of a small country, we managed to find a very big windmill. Windmill Island Gardens was our primary entertainment: from the authentically Dutch architecture to the pristine grounds. The high point was seeing De Zwaan windmill, originally constructed in 1884 in Vinkel, Noord Brabant, it fell into disrepair and was later erected in Holland, U.S.A. in the 1960s after years of negotiations and approvals from the Dutch government (windmills are protected there as national monuments). We were the only people on the grounds, so it almost felt like a post-apocalyptic amusement park – not too far from the truth, I suppose.

A more natural scenic site was the Arcadia Overlook, also known as Inspiration Point. It’s a short climb up the wooden stairs to a platform that gives you a good view of the lake and forests. I highly recommend visiting in the fall for all of the richness of the leaves’ colours, but I’m sure any time of year would be wonderful (just maybe not winter, unless you’re good at walking on icy stairs!). It’s the kind of spot that feels like it belongs on a guidebook for romantic getaway vantage points. A book I would happily write, as long as it came with perks like free massages and endless chocolate-dipped strawberries.

Our base for the trip was the versatile Chimney Corners Resort, which I chose for its excellent reviews and lack of proximity to people. Our little cabin had its own entrance, and we were able to come and go as we pleased without having to see or speak to anyone. Again, pandemic travel is a different beast. I’d recommend the Lakeview Cottages for their views, easy parking, privacy, and for the feeling that the lakefront beach is your front yard. Although we visited in the fall, we still took advantage of the beach for short strolls, and more drawn-out tetherball matches (which I always won). One note of caution: the internet wasn’t always reliable, which posed a challenge as I had meetings to attend. Fortunately, before there was internet there were phones – a fact we sometimes forget – so I was able to just use my cell phone instead of my laptop to conduct my “business”.

Near Chimney Corners Resort, we enjoyed visiting the little towns of Frankfort, Benzonia, Beulah, and Empire. We particularly enjoyed the Roadhouse Mexican Bar and Grill, and Shipwreck Café. The latter would be a great place to pick up a sandwich before hiking at Sleeping Bear Dunes Park. You purchase your pass for the park in Empire at the Philip A. Hart Visitor Center down the street – at the time it cost us $25, and the volunteers provided us with a map, a smaller handout, and incredibly helpful information about the hiking trails and local wildlife. Based on their advice, we chose to do two: the Dune Climb, and the Empire Bluffs Trail.

Dune Climb:

I found the Dune Climb more tiring, and because it started raining, we turned back before we made it all the way to the water views on the other side. Either way, once you get to the top you’ll see multiple lakes, forests, and sand dunes – endless sand dunes weren’t quite what I was expecting when I thought of the northern U.S., but I was happy to explore them!

Empire Bluffs Trail:

The Empire Bluffs Trail was well-maintained, but overall not super accessible, so I would be cautious if you have mobility devices and/or are experiencing a flare-up. That being said, age shouldn’t be a factor. We befriended a lovely couple in their 70s/80s who were visiting from Chicago. I would say “small world”, but it’s fairly unsurprising when Chicago is only a 5.5 hour drive away and Illinois isn’t exactly a hiking destination! As a note: along our hikes, I don’t remember seeing many spots to sit, and don’t recall having seen toilets or drinking fountains along the way either (only in the parking lot of the Dune Climb). You also have to watch out for ticks and poison ivy – check often! If you’re more adventurous you could try camping there, fishing/hunting, and even a snowy winter snowshoe or skiing trek!

A much more accessible outing is the scenic M-22 drive. To start off from Frankfort, you can stop at the Point Betsie Lighthouse, which was built in 1858. We paused there for a few minutes just to take it all in. I felt a lot of gratitude standing by that lighthouse looking out and imagining all the passing ships – mainly just pleased I wasn’t trapped on one of them, weak-kneed, queasy, and vomiting from sea sickness from the windy waves. Once that thought subsided, I was even more thankful to have the opportunity to explore this natural region with my partner during the pandemic: travel restrictions were rightfully in place, but this was a little piece of paradise that we could safely (legally) explore in relative peace and quiet.

We then hopped back in the car to continue on to Glen Haven and Glen Arbor: similar names, very different experiences. Glen Haven is a historic little town with an old cannery boathouse museum, historic blacksmith shop and so on, while Glen Arbor is a thriving contemporary town that’s also known as the cherry capital of Michigan (and arguably, the U.S.). We made the most of it by trying a few cherry products at the Cherry Public House/Cherry Republic, the biggest restaurant in town. Their tea was my favourite product, but my partner seemed to enjoy the ice cream – again, it’s never too cold for a good milkshake or ice cream! While wandering town, we came across the Glen Arbor Arts Center. It’s a gem. They cycle through different exhibits, but also have fun initiatives like the equivalent of a free library but for art: “take a piece, leave a piece”. They’re open Monday through Sunday, but hours differ so it’s worth looking into it in advance so you don’t miss out. Down the street, I couldn’t resist making a purchase at the Cottage Book Shop. With a façade that looks like an old-timey trading post, its interior is supremely welcoming and cozy.

Speaking of the olden days, our stop in Leland and Fishtown was an unexpected blast from the past. The town has great shopping and restaurants, but also serves as one of the last remaining commercial fishing towns in Michigan (and possibly the U.S.). Once we had grabbed some food from the Village Cheese Shanty (which I highly recommend), we wandered by the rising waters around the old wooden structures of Fishtown. Apparently, its heyday was the first three decades of the 1900s, but nowadays it’s still a pretty popular tourist destination. As I mentioned, there’s good shopping there so I’d recommend setting aside some time to explore the small artisanal shops.

We drove through Suttons Bay on our way to Traverse City, and if we had had more time we may have also stopped at Grand Traverse Lighthouse and Leelanau State Park. As it stood, we really wanted enough time to check out the city and especially the Grand Traverse Commons: an expansive commercial and residential area that was formerly a hospital and before that the Northern Michigan Asylum. It’s a great place to shop, eat, and travel back through time. I wish we’d arrived earlier so that we could have done the two-hour tour to find out more about Dr. Munson and his “beauty is therapy” approach to mental healthcare – the grounds are surrounded by forests, and patient rooms (now converted condos) were spacious and light. They have a variety of tours, so it’s worth considering whether one would meet your needs. For us, after grabbing a quick bite in the tunnels, we ventured to the downtown where I bought some lavender products from Harbor View Lavender Farm.

To end off our trip we had decided to visit Grand Rapids and South Bend. It turned out that when the time came neither of us were really interested in stopping to explore either city, so we basically paused at the Notre Dame campus, took some photos, and headed back toward Chicago. We spent our newfound time walking and eating our way through Pilsen: an historically Hispanic neighbourhood with vibrant street art, music, and delicious Mexican restaurants. This quiet, tree-lined Michigan getaway is a world apart from the raucous, concrete jungle of Chicago, yet I felt happier being back in Chicago knowing that nature was well within reach.